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View Statistics: Past 24 Hours: The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad. If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it. If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9. Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.
If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience.
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However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work. Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" 50 mm from the bottom of the iPad. Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.
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Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable. Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers. Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.
Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad. Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down. The bottom left screw is obscured by the home button ribbon cable connector. Carefully move the home button ribbon cable aside to remove the bottom left screw.
Using a plastic opening tool or a spudger, lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. Rotate the LCD along its left edge and lay it down on top of the front glass panel. Be careful as you move the LCD. The ribbon cable is fragile and may break if it is flexed too much. Using the tip of a spudger, peel back the piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector.
Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, pull the LCD ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board. If present, remove the piece of electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of tape that secures the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the adhesive underneath the digitizer ribbon cable.
Peel back the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to release the adhesive securing the cable to the rear aluminum case. Using your fingers, pull the digitizer ribbon cable out of its recess in the aluminum frame. The home button assembly is attached to the front panel with some adhesive. The use of an iOpener to soften the adhesive is highly recommended. Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for one minute on the highest power setting or just thirty seconds if you're using the newer gel-filled iOpener.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure.
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We recommend waiting at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener. Wedge the plastic opening tool under the right side of the home button assembly and pry upwards, releasing the adhesive on that side. Using the technique above, release the adhesive on the left side of the home button.
Insert the edge of plastic opening tool underneath the edge of the home button mounting bracket. Slide the plastic opening tool along the retaining spring bracket, releasing the adhesive. The camera bracket is attached to the front panel by adhesive. Follow the iOpener heating instructions described in the iOpener heating section at the beginning of this guide. Place the iOpener over the front facing camera on the front edge of the top of the display. Use the flat end of a spudger to push the camera bracket off the adhesive securing it to the front panel.
The camera bracket will move about 2 mm to the right or left depending which way you push the camera bracket.
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To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel. I did not complete this guide. Step Test the connections by dry fitting the front glass to the chassis prior to removing the white adhesive strip protection.
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Power on the unit to ensure the LCD panel powers on and that the digitizer functions. Power the unit down. Remove the clear front glass protector from the rear of the glass. Then proceed to perform the final install by removing the white adhesive protection. Seat the front glass. Remove the protective cover from the front of the front glass. My logic board is damaged.
Too much force was used to remove the connector. Is there a way to repair this or does the logic board need to be replaced. Select a Language: Help Translate iFixit. Walter Galan and 4 other contributors. Difficulty Difficult. Steps Time Required 1 - 3 hours. Sections 8. Flags 0. Introduction Note: Tools Buy these tools. Parts Buy these parts.
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Step 1 iOpener Heating. Add Comment. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4 Front Panel. Step 5. Tools used on this step:.
Step 6. Step 7. One comment.
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